Help me I'm so confused
This page is to help people that have problems with there rabbits and dont know what to do. If you cant find hat your looking for send me a message and I will do my best to help :).
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Aloe Vera Amaryllis Anemone Apple Leaf Crocus Asparagus ferns Autumn Crocus Begonia Betel Nut Palm Bindweed Bird of Paradise Bleeding Heart Black Nightshade Berry Boxwood Buttercup Calendula Calla Lily Carnation Christmas Rose Cineraria Creeping Charlie Croton Crown of Thorns Cuban Laurel Cycads Cyclamen Daffodil Daisy Daphne Delphinium Elaine Four o'clock Foxglove Geranium German Ivy Gladiola Glory Lily Gold Tooth Aloe Hemlock Holly berry Hyacinth Hydrangea Iris Jerusalem cherry Laburnum Larkspur Ligustrum Lily of the Valley Lobelia Monkshood Parsnip Pencil Cactus Peony Periwinkle Plumosa Fern Poinciana Poppy Pot Mum Potato (green part) Primrose Privet Pyracantha berry Rhubarb Snow-on-the Mountains Sand Begonias Solomon's Seal Sprengeri fern Squill Star of Bethlehem Sweet Pea Tomato (leaves & vines) Tulip/Tulip Bulb Violet Seeds Yew |
POISONOUS PLANTS - INDOORS Anthurium Arrowhead Vine Azalea Bittersweet Ceriman Cladium Clematis Coral Berry Cordatum Corn Plant Cotton Easter Devil's Ivy Dieffenbachia Dracaena (all) Dragon Tree Dutchman's Pipe Elephant Ear Euonymus Exotica Perfection Firecracker Ficus (all) Fluffy Ruffles Foxwood Hawaiian Wood Rose Hedge Apples Henbane Holly Indian Rubber Plant Inkberry Ivy Jerusalem Cherry Laurel Cherry Marble Queen Mexicantes Mexican Breadfruit Miniature Croton Moonseed Morning Glory Mother-in-law Nephthysis Oleander Paradise Plant Partridge Breast Poinsettia Poison Nut Pothos (all) Philodendrum (all) Rhododendron Sago Palm Snake Palm Spathe Flower Spotted Dumb Cane String of Beads Swiss Cheese Plant Taro Vine Toyon Christmas Berry Trumpet Plant Umbrella Plant Victoria Regia Woodbine Wood Rose Yellow Jasmine Info thanks to 3B's Rabbitry |
Rabbit Personality's
Rabbit personalities (like people) vary, some bunnies enjoy handling more than others. Some are carriers some are lap sitters and some are cuddlers.
Whatever their natural inclination, they need to feel safe.
Ask for a demonstration when you buy your bunny and then practice a lot. The more you handle it the easier it will become for both you and the bunny!
The photos (to follow) show different ways to pick up and carry but their is no substitute for practice. Some rabbits are easier to pick up by the loose skin over the middle of it's back and others prefer a hand under the belly gently lifting up.
Many show breeders never pick their rabbits up by the scruff fearing injury to the animal or crushing of the pelt but for a new handler, there is less likelihood of dropping a disorderly rabbit. But only pick them up in the MIDDLE of the back balancing the weight on both sides of your hand so they don't kick and injure themselves. Then quickly bring the rabbit to your body, supporting the buttocks. It should be a fairly swift movement and not intended to carry them like a sack of groceries.
Don't be timid! Hold on firmly. He'll feel safer. Bear in mind that a rabbit was born to have all four feet on the ground. When you pick him up and his feet aren't touching something, they feel insecure.
Keep all four feet resting on your chest, lap or forearm and cover his ears with your free hand. If their ears wobble, they loose their equilibrium. When ears are covered, they feel more secure and you have more control.
One hand under the buttocks and one on the ears is easiest. The head nestled under your arm with your hand holding the buttocks is another safe feeling for the bunny.
The important thing is to start handling the bunny early so he trusts that you won't drop him.
Have children start out sitting down and picking the bunny up from the floor. Walking around with the bunny is asking for trouble. The child might fall, the bunny might scramble from an insecure grip and can fall to the ground causing serious injury to both the child and rabbit. Wrapping the bunny in a towel or baby blanket at first also increases the feeling of safety for both rabbit and human.
In short order, the bunny will feel safe and won't care how it gets picked up if it trusts you or your child.
NEVER, EVER, PICK A RABBIT UP BY THE EARS!!!!
HOW DO YOU KEEP FROM GETTING SCRATCHED?
Practice, practice, practice!
The most likely times to get scratched are in the process of putting the bunny in the cage and taking it out. A simple technique learned from the start will make everyone's life easier.
DO IT BACKWARDS!
When you take a bunny out or put it in the cage, do it backwards. The instinct is to jump towards the floor when put in the cage forward, hence the arms get scratched as the bunny pushes off out of your hands. If he goes in backwards, he doesn't see the floor coming up to greet him and in he goes quietly.
Likewise, taking the bunny out forward, the feet go out to the sides catching in the cage wire and making it uncomfortable for both you and Thumper. Turned around backwards there are no parts to hang up on the door or cage wire. A large door opening makes handling easier.
It may feel a little awkward at first but is easy enough to learn and well worth the effort.
Whatever their natural inclination, they need to feel safe.
Ask for a demonstration when you buy your bunny and then practice a lot. The more you handle it the easier it will become for both you and the bunny!
The photos (to follow) show different ways to pick up and carry but their is no substitute for practice. Some rabbits are easier to pick up by the loose skin over the middle of it's back and others prefer a hand under the belly gently lifting up.
Many show breeders never pick their rabbits up by the scruff fearing injury to the animal or crushing of the pelt but for a new handler, there is less likelihood of dropping a disorderly rabbit. But only pick them up in the MIDDLE of the back balancing the weight on both sides of your hand so they don't kick and injure themselves. Then quickly bring the rabbit to your body, supporting the buttocks. It should be a fairly swift movement and not intended to carry them like a sack of groceries.
Don't be timid! Hold on firmly. He'll feel safer. Bear in mind that a rabbit was born to have all four feet on the ground. When you pick him up and his feet aren't touching something, they feel insecure.
Keep all four feet resting on your chest, lap or forearm and cover his ears with your free hand. If their ears wobble, they loose their equilibrium. When ears are covered, they feel more secure and you have more control.
One hand under the buttocks and one on the ears is easiest. The head nestled under your arm with your hand holding the buttocks is another safe feeling for the bunny.
The important thing is to start handling the bunny early so he trusts that you won't drop him.
Have children start out sitting down and picking the bunny up from the floor. Walking around with the bunny is asking for trouble. The child might fall, the bunny might scramble from an insecure grip and can fall to the ground causing serious injury to both the child and rabbit. Wrapping the bunny in a towel or baby blanket at first also increases the feeling of safety for both rabbit and human.
In short order, the bunny will feel safe and won't care how it gets picked up if it trusts you or your child.
NEVER, EVER, PICK A RABBIT UP BY THE EARS!!!!
HOW DO YOU KEEP FROM GETTING SCRATCHED?
Practice, practice, practice!
The most likely times to get scratched are in the process of putting the bunny in the cage and taking it out. A simple technique learned from the start will make everyone's life easier.
DO IT BACKWARDS!
When you take a bunny out or put it in the cage, do it backwards. The instinct is to jump towards the floor when put in the cage forward, hence the arms get scratched as the bunny pushes off out of your hands. If he goes in backwards, he doesn't see the floor coming up to greet him and in he goes quietly.
Likewise, taking the bunny out forward, the feet go out to the sides catching in the cage wire and making it uncomfortable for both you and Thumper. Turned around backwards there are no parts to hang up on the door or cage wire. A large door opening makes handling easier.
It may feel a little awkward at first but is easy enough to learn and well worth the effort.
What supplies do you need for a Mini Rex rabbit?
By Ellyn Eddy
The Mini Rex is a small rabbit breed with compact body type and dense, short, plush fur. They are incredibly soft, and amazingly sweet-tempered... at least as a rule. If you're considering a pet rabbit, you should definitely check out this breed. And if you're checking out this breed, you should definitely know what items you need to help it to thrive under your care. Here's a quick list to help.
The Right Size Cage
Mini Rex rabbits weigh about 4 pounds, which means they must have at least three square feet of floor space. However, a rabbit's needs vary with its age and stage: a junior Mini Rex will need less space than a doe and her growing litter. In any case, the rabbit must have enough space to stretch out completely when it lies down. In fact, a cage too small will not only cause discomfort, but could even cause muscular and skeletal injury! On the other hand, bunnies can be difficult to catch in cages that are too big.
The minimum sized cage for an average sized adult Mini Rex would be an 18X24" cage. They do better, though, in a 24X24" cage because they have more room to stretch out and exercise. These plushy bunnies do have a fondness for food, and will get chubby if you're not careful. So in addition to a cage of sufficient size, Mini Rex should get out for exercise at least a few times a week.
CAUTION: Every Mini Rex Cage needs a resting mat!
Whatever your Mini Rex rabbit's cage size, there's one accessory it must have: a cage floor mat. Most rabbits can live on wire floors with no problem. But because Mini Rex have unusually short plush fur, they are susceptible to pododermatitis if they sit too much right on the wire. That's a fancy name for when the fur wears away on the hind feet and the skin cracks. Better known as sore hocks, this can cause infection and bleeding, and is very hard to beat once a case has developed. You can soothe the skin with healing ointment, such as All Natural Bunny Balm, but the fur may not grow back, causing an endless cycle of breaking and bleeding. When it comes to sore hocks, prevention is key.
Pro tip: Premium Rabbit Supplies is running a 3-day sale on EZ-Mats! You can only access the sale page through this special link, so check it out today!
http://www.premiumrabbits.com/ez-mat-resting-mats-on-sale/
Ideal carrier size for a Mini Rex
Mini Rex do very well in a small 9X24" carrier (not to be confused with a Dwarf sized carrier, which is could be called extra small). Although this seems very small for the rabbit to feel comfortable in, the size does serve a purpose. In a carrier too big, a rabbit could easily be spooked during transport causing him to rip out a toenail, fracture a limb, or even break their back and die. However, you still want the carrier to be just big enough for the rabbit to lie down, which makes the 9X24" carrier slots perfect for a Mini Rex.
Feeding, Watering, and Accessories
Mini Rex don't have any special needs when it comes to feeding and watering. Like all breeds, they have a penchant for tipping their food bowls over whenever possible, so it's a good idea to get one that attaches to the cage wire. Mini Rex can drink out of bowls or bottles. If you're not sure which would be better for your bunny, check out this article that compares the two.
Although the Rex coat makes them more susceptible to sore hocks, one nice feature is that it almost never requires brushing. All you have to do is moisten your hand and run it through the fur to pull out the dead hairs. In fact, frequent brushing can destroy a Mini Rex coat. However, like all breeds, they need their toenails trimmed regularly.
Enjoy your Mini Rex!
By Ellyn Eddy
The Mini Rex is a small rabbit breed with compact body type and dense, short, plush fur. They are incredibly soft, and amazingly sweet-tempered... at least as a rule. If you're considering a pet rabbit, you should definitely check out this breed. And if you're checking out this breed, you should definitely know what items you need to help it to thrive under your care. Here's a quick list to help.
The Right Size Cage
Mini Rex rabbits weigh about 4 pounds, which means they must have at least three square feet of floor space. However, a rabbit's needs vary with its age and stage: a junior Mini Rex will need less space than a doe and her growing litter. In any case, the rabbit must have enough space to stretch out completely when it lies down. In fact, a cage too small will not only cause discomfort, but could even cause muscular and skeletal injury! On the other hand, bunnies can be difficult to catch in cages that are too big.
The minimum sized cage for an average sized adult Mini Rex would be an 18X24" cage. They do better, though, in a 24X24" cage because they have more room to stretch out and exercise. These plushy bunnies do have a fondness for food, and will get chubby if you're not careful. So in addition to a cage of sufficient size, Mini Rex should get out for exercise at least a few times a week.
CAUTION: Every Mini Rex Cage needs a resting mat!
Whatever your Mini Rex rabbit's cage size, there's one accessory it must have: a cage floor mat. Most rabbits can live on wire floors with no problem. But because Mini Rex have unusually short plush fur, they are susceptible to pododermatitis if they sit too much right on the wire. That's a fancy name for when the fur wears away on the hind feet and the skin cracks. Better known as sore hocks, this can cause infection and bleeding, and is very hard to beat once a case has developed. You can soothe the skin with healing ointment, such as All Natural Bunny Balm, but the fur may not grow back, causing an endless cycle of breaking and bleeding. When it comes to sore hocks, prevention is key.
Pro tip: Premium Rabbit Supplies is running a 3-day sale on EZ-Mats! You can only access the sale page through this special link, so check it out today!
http://www.premiumrabbits.com/ez-mat-resting-mats-on-sale/
Ideal carrier size for a Mini Rex
Mini Rex do very well in a small 9X24" carrier (not to be confused with a Dwarf sized carrier, which is could be called extra small). Although this seems very small for the rabbit to feel comfortable in, the size does serve a purpose. In a carrier too big, a rabbit could easily be spooked during transport causing him to rip out a toenail, fracture a limb, or even break their back and die. However, you still want the carrier to be just big enough for the rabbit to lie down, which makes the 9X24" carrier slots perfect for a Mini Rex.
Feeding, Watering, and Accessories
Mini Rex don't have any special needs when it comes to feeding and watering. Like all breeds, they have a penchant for tipping their food bowls over whenever possible, so it's a good idea to get one that attaches to the cage wire. Mini Rex can drink out of bowls or bottles. If you're not sure which would be better for your bunny, check out this article that compares the two.
Although the Rex coat makes them more susceptible to sore hocks, one nice feature is that it almost never requires brushing. All you have to do is moisten your hand and run it through the fur to pull out the dead hairs. In fact, frequent brushing can destroy a Mini Rex coat. However, like all breeds, they need their toenails trimmed regularly.
Enjoy your Mini Rex!
Raising Rabbits for FFA - A comprehensive guide to raising rabbits for FFA and show. Filled with FFA Rabbit Project information and resources.
The National FFA Organization gives young men and women a chance to develop their skills in agriculture while earning high school credit. Formerly known as Future Farmers of America, the National FFA Organization also offers leadership opportunities and competitions at local, state, and national levels. One of the projects you can earn FFA credit for is rabbit raising. What is the difference between FFA and 4-H? 4-H and FFA are very similar programs; the primary difference between them is simply that FFA is sponsored by a high school and 4-H is not. (4-H is governed by the national cooperative extension, often in partnership with state universities.) Not all high schools offer FFA (it's mostly available in rural and agricultural communities), whereas almost all counties in the United States offer a 4-H club of some type. Unlike FFA, 4-H is not restricted to agriculture, but also offers a variety of projects including homemaking, crafts, community service, and performing arts. 4-H may offer more shows throughout the year, or more contests such as rabbit showmanship. Therefore, there are many more members in 4-H than in FFA. But although involvement in 4-H can look good on scholarship and college applications, it won't actually earn you school credit like FFA will. The good news is that you can be a member in both FFA and 4-H at the same time, and many FFA students are also 4-H members. What type of rabbits do you need to show in FFA? This totally depends on your project focus. If you intend to show your rabbits, you will probably need purebred stock. But if your goal is to provide food for your family and exhibit your success through your project record book, mixed breed rabbits might do well enough. The nice thing about FFA is that it is very structured, so you will have a teacher to answer your questions and make sure you start off right. If you are raising rabbits for a meat pen project, breeds with "commercial" type work best. These aren't the largest rabbits that exist, but rather the breeds that mature at 10 to 12 pounds, have a quick rate of growth, and a medium-light bone structure. The Californian and New Zealand breeds are most popular, but other food choices include the American Chinchilla, Champagne d'Argent, and Satin. If you want "fancy" rabbits for show, popular breeds include Dutch, Mini Rex, Holland Lop, and Polish. The size rabbit cage you should purchase will depend on the size of the rabbit breed that you choose. Your FFA rabbits should probably have pedigrees, which can be easily generated using programs such as The Easy Rabbit Pedigree Generator. How many rabbits do you need to show in FFA? Your FFA rabbit project can be large or small; it depends on what your goals are and what your program leader requires. The important thing is that you keep your herd to a size you can manage. If you are trying to produce meat for your family, use the following numbers to help you decide how many does you should purchase: One female rabbit of a Commercial breed can have about six litters per year and stay in good shape. Each litter will produce six to ten kits on average. Considering that not all kits survive, you can still expect to get at least six fryers out of each litter if your doe is a decent producer, more if she's a good one. Each kit needs ten weeks to grow to market size of five pounds. A five-pound fryer will dress out at about 55%, or around 2.5 pounds of meat. That means one litter of six kits will produce 15 pounds of meat in ten weeks. A litter of ten kits will produce 25 pounds of meat. If a doe has an average of 8 kits per litter and 6 kits per year, you're looking at about 120 pounds of meat per doe per year. Of course, it might take a little while for you to learn the ropes before your does produce as well as you want them to. How many cages do you need to raise rabbits in FFA? Again, this depends on the scope of your project. But whether you are raising rabbits for "fancy" shows or for meat, you can usually achieve your goals with about 25 cages, or "holes." If you are raising rabbits for meat, you should have one buck for every eight to ten breeding does. (If you have ten or fewer does total, you may want two breeding bucks for genetic diversity, and as security in case something happens to one of them.) For every doe in production you should have three or four grow out cages for her litters, since you will want to grow some to fryer weight and others to maturity to use as replacement stock. If you are raising rabbits for showing in FFA, you can be successful with 25 holes without being overwhelmed. It can be difficult for one person to care for more than 25 or 30 cages by themselves. What equipment do you need to raise rabbits in FFA? First off, the cages. You should have use all-wire cages when raising rabbits for FFA. These are not only healthier for rabbits than solid-bottomed cages, but they are much easier to care for. In addition, a professional study was presented to the World Rabbit Science Association that shows rabbits prefer wire to solid-bottomed cages! You should use cages that can stack on top of one another, such as the Supreme Rabbit Homes, or use cage shelving units to preserve space. Tip: If you prefer to build your own rabbit cages for FFA, you can buy welded wire, J-clips, and other supplies at PremiumRabbits.com Next, the feeders. Metal J-feeders are typically preferred by FFA students, but others use crocks for food as well. Water bottles are also popular. One of the most important pieces of equipment you will need is a nest box. Each doe needs her own nest box to keep her kits safe. You can buy wood, wire, or metal nest boxes, but many people prefer metal nesting boxes that have removable wood floors. These are easy to sanitize between litters and won't harbor urine and bacteria like all-wood boxes will. They are less clunky and therefore easier to manage than all wood boxes. Steel rabbit nest boxes last for a very long time - the metal box will probably never wear out, and it's quick and easy to replace the wooden floor. How do you keep an FFA rabbit project healthy? Hard work. That's the key. Your FFA project will probably be successful if you work at it with dedication, and are willing to give it plenty of time. Don't be discouraged if it doesn't go well at first; it takes a surprisingly long time to get the hang of managing a rabbitry successfully. But that's the value in FFA. It gives you a chance to learn how to care for rabbits with the help of mentors and peers. A couple of extensive rabbit keeping books, such as Raising Rabbits 101 alongside Raising Meat Pen Rabbits by Aaron Webster or the Youth Rabbit Project Study Guide can be of tremendous help also. Good luck! |
How to make your doe look forward to you touching her kits.
You should have a small stawberry or safe healthy piece of fruit ( small so as not to give them to much sugar ) and give it to her ever time you go to touch the kits this way she gets a positive outlook on you touching the kits instead of her thinking your going to hurt them |
Rabbit Care in the Winter - Seven Important Tips
By Ellyn Eddy from PremiumRabbits.com Rabbits are amazingly hardy. Different rabbit species can live the most varied of the world's climates, be it the desert, the mountains, the swamps, or the bitter cold. The rabbits we keep as pets descended from the wild rabbit of Europe. Thus, pet rabbits are built to be able to live outside in the winter - even in sub-freezing temperatures - as long as you provide the right care. In fact, I write this from my home in northern Michigan. It's December, and there are sixteen inches of snow on the ground outside. The thermometer hasn't touched above 32*F in two or three weeks, and yet the bunnies outside are doing fine. All your rabbits need in the winter is a little extra attention. So, based on my experience, here are my top tips for winter rabbit care: 1. Make sure your rabbits have water around the clock. This is the number one rabbit care tip any time of year, but it's especially important in times of weather extremes. If deprived of water, rabbits will not eat. If they do not eat frequently, their digestive system - used to digesting high fiber foods slowly but steadily - will become static. This can morph into a serious problem very quickly. Besides, if a rabbit drinks lots of water, its coat will become extra soft and shiny. True story! 2. Use the right watering equipment. This is essential to accomplishing point #1. Water bottles do not work well in freezing temps. (Freeze = expand = crack...pretty obvious.) The spout on a water bottle will freeze first, which means that even though the water in the bottle might still be liquid, the rabbit cannot access it through the frozen spout. Instead of bottles, use hard plastic or stoneware crocks. Hard plastic is better, because it won't crack as easily when dropped. (And trust me, when your hands are numb from the cold, you do drop crocks.) 3. Have two water dishes for each rabbit. Not two dishes in the cage at once, but one in the cage while the other is in the house thawing. When I go out to water the rabbits, I remove their frozen water dishes (usually containing a semi-solid ice cube) and throw them in a five-gallon pail. Then I replace it with a fresh dish of water, and take the bucket of frozen dishes in the house to thaw. Next time I go out, I can make the swap again. My water crock of choice is the EZ-crock, because I've tossed dozens of frozen EZ-crocks into a bucket, one on top of another, and never had one crack yet. Besides, the rabbits can't spill them, which is an obvious bonus. 4. Full-feed in the winter. Moving on from water, let's talk feed. To "full-feed" your rabbit means to give it enough pellets that it will have some left over every time you come to do chores. I'm usually very wary of recommending this. Rabbits will not gorge themselves to death if given the chance, but they usually do put on some excess weight if they are full-fed. However, when the daily high temperature is 20*F or less for weeks at time, rabbits burn so much energy keeping warm that I think full-feeding is warranted. 5. Don't use electronic heating devices. I understand wanting to help your bunnies stay warm. I understand touching their ears with your fingertips and bemoaning that they feel like ice. But I also understand that it's better for a rabbit to be chilly than to be roasted alive. Do NOT use electronic heating devices such as warming pads, heated dishes, or heat lamps. Rabbits can outside in freezing temperatures all winter and be just fine. The wild rabbits do it; they don't hibernate like the bears and chipmunks. Anytime you use electronic devices outside in the weather, they are at risk of shorting and catching fire. Rabbits will chew on every electrical cord they can find. Even if the heating device is outside the cage, close proximity to straw or wood shavings in the cage can quickly cause fire. Trust me: we used heating pads with our first rabbits, and though we were very careful to protect the cords and electrical connections, they caught fire. We barely had time to rescue our bunnies. 6. Don't cut off the ventilation. Bunnies that don't live in an environment with good airflow are susceptible to snuffles and other respiratory problems. In the winter we batten down the hatches in an attempt to keep heat in and drafts out, and while this is good, make sure you still allow plenty of airflow. 7. Observe your rabbits often. Look at them. Watch them eating or playing. Take them out and run your hand down their coats. Turn them over and check for signs of illness. You can usually tell if a rabbit is ill if you take the time to watch and handle it. But if you just breeze by it, give it feed and water and skip out, it could be silently suffering and you wouldn't know till it's too late. |
All across America, the national 4-H project is helping young rabbit owners grow into responsible adults. There are currently over 6.5 million members enrolled in this youth program. Established in 1914, 4-H helps members develop skills in agriculture, horticulture, homemaking, and the arts; and then offers them the chance to show off those skills through fairs and competitions. The rabbit program is an important part of the 4-H curriculum, and if you or your child would like to be successful in raising rabbits for 4-H, here are some pointers to help you get started.
Do you need purebred rabbits to show in 4-H?
The answer to this question is yes and no. It depends on what type of classes you want to enter, as well as the regulations for your area. 4-H is managed on county-wide and state-wide levels, and each region has its own way of doing things. In general, breed competitions are usually judged by the ARBA Standard of Perfection, so to compete in these classes, you need to have a purebred rabbit recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association. However, some fairs may have a mixed breed class in addition to the purebred classes. Also, you may be able to use mixed or crossbreed rabbits in meat pen (market pen) or showmanship competitions. Check with your local club leader or extension office to learn the regulations for your region. Remember though, that whether or not your area will allow mixed breed rabbits, you will probably have better success by buying purebreds.
Where to Buy Rabbits to Show in 4-H
If you are beginning a 4-H rabbit project, the best place to buy rabbits is from a local breeder. If possible, buy bunnies from a breeder in your immediate area. That way you can develop a relationship with the breeder and he or she can be there to help if you run into problems down the road. Also, this gives you a chance to visit their farm (if they invite you over) and see how they manage their rabbitry, which can give you ideas on how to start your own project. Finally, there's a good chance that a breeder in your county is familiar with the fair you plan to show at, and will know the classes they accept. One of the best places to get in touch with local breeders is through online Rabbit Breeder Directories.
Most fairs have their own regulations when it comes to dividing rabbits for judging. It's important to know what classes they offer so you can know how to buy and breed your stock. Some fairs divide rabbit classes by fancy (small) and commercial (large) breeds. Others judge each breed separately like an ARBA sanctioned show. In fact, some fair shows are also ARBA sanctioned. Some allow mixed breed rabbits and others do not. Some fairs have "get of sire" or "get of dam" classes, where you can show a senior rabbit with its junior offspring. Almost all fairs offer market classes such as meat pens, single fryers, and commercial fur. Most have rabbit showmanship competitions, and some have extra contests for youth participants such as judging, quiz bowl, skill-a-thon, or royalty.
Narrow down which classes you would like to enter before you purchase your stock. Then look for a respected breeder in your area that raises the type of rabbits you would like to show. Start looking for a breeder as soon as possible; don't delay even for a few weeks. Some breeders have waiting lists of customers and it might take several months before you can get stock from them. Contact them early to get on their list early, and also to make sure you don't miss the fair's deadline. Many fairs require exhibitors to have their rabbits on their own premises a couple of months before show day. That way they can be sure that the showman is responsible for the rabbit's current health and condition.
Never purchase a rabbit if you detect any red flags about the bunny or the breeder. Don't be afraid to ask the breeder questions: if they won't help you with your questions, they are not someone you want to buy from. Check the rabbit over thoroughly for health issues or disqualifications. Always, always check its teeth, toenails, and sex before agreeing to bring it home. Even well-meaning breeders can make mistakes when sexing a rabbit or looking it over for disqualifications, and you don't want to find out too late. If it's your first time buying rabbits, bring your 4-H leader or other mentor along with you to get their opinion about the bunnies.
Care of a 4-H Rabbit Project
Once you have your rabbits home, your only job is to keep them in top condition until show day. Here are the five top rules for preparing your rabbit for fair:
1. Use the proper equipment. Only use all-wire cages. These are much less likely to cause urine stains on your rabbit than solid bottomed cages. They also keep your rabbit's environment cleaner and reduce ammonia. If you plan to breed your rabbits, make sure you have a nest box ready at least a week before your doe is due to deliver.
2. Feed a healthy and consistent diet. People will spend a long time looking at feed bag labels trying to determine the healthiest diet for their rabbits. While that is admirable, sometimes the freshness of the feed and the consistency of the nutrition are more important than the brand of pellets. Ideally, show rabbits should have a diet low in protein and fat and high in fiber. Free-choice timothy hay is an excellent addition to any rabbit's meal. Always make sure the feed is fresh; rabbits will not condition well on stale pellets. A healthy base diet is more effective at getting your rabbit in top condition than any supplements you could throw in.
3. Provide the proper environment. Proper housing doesn't stop at a well-made cage. The cage must be located in an area with excellent ventilation. The surrounding temperature should not get above 85 degrees at any time of the year, at least unless you take measures to keep your rabbit cool and hydrated in hot weather. The cage can be kept outside, but must be protected from predators and precipitation. It must be kept in a quiet area so your rabbit will not be stressed. All these factors, if the rabbit is not protected from them, can compromise your bunny's immune system. It's also very important to keep the cage clean. Not only will this help prevent disease such as coccidiosis, but it will you're your rabbit's coat from getting stained.
4. Handle your rabbit often. This step must not be neglected if you want to be successful showing rabbits in 4-H. You must train your rabbit to pose, so it will look good for the judges. Rabbits can learn to pose themselves as soon as they are touched if you work long enough with them. If you are competing in rabbit showmanship, you should get your rabbit used to the routine, so it will cooperate with you on show day. Handling your rabbit is also very important because it allows you to check its health and condition daily. That way if your rabbit has any health problems, you can catch them early on.
5. Keep good records. Some 4-H leaders or county fairs will require you to show your project record book along with your rabbit. You might even win a prize for keeping good records! Even if record keeping is not a requirement, it's an excellent management practice and will help you raise better rabbits in the end. At bare minimum, you should keep pedigrees and breeding records for every rabbit you raise. Hint: grab some rabbitry management software to make your job easier.
Beyond the Show Day
Many 4-H members are "in it to win it" - and that's fine. It makes for healthy competition. But 4-H is about much more than winning Grand Champion. Even if you start because you want to compete, you will find that you learn many skills in 4-H that will help you your whole life. So even if you don't win first prize, take time to enjoy learning how to care for animals, enjoy the friendships you build with others in your club, and enjoy being a benefit to your community as you pledge your "hands to larger service."
If you'd like more information on how to show rabbits in 4-H clubs, check out the Youth Rabbit Project Study Guide and Raising Meat Pen Rabbits Guide by Aaron Webster. Updated for 2013, this book gives expert tips about how to show your rabbit in Showmanship and compete in Breed ID and other 4-H competitions. Written by a two-time runner up for ARBA National Rabbit Queen
Do you need purebred rabbits to show in 4-H?
The answer to this question is yes and no. It depends on what type of classes you want to enter, as well as the regulations for your area. 4-H is managed on county-wide and state-wide levels, and each region has its own way of doing things. In general, breed competitions are usually judged by the ARBA Standard of Perfection, so to compete in these classes, you need to have a purebred rabbit recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association. However, some fairs may have a mixed breed class in addition to the purebred classes. Also, you may be able to use mixed or crossbreed rabbits in meat pen (market pen) or showmanship competitions. Check with your local club leader or extension office to learn the regulations for your region. Remember though, that whether or not your area will allow mixed breed rabbits, you will probably have better success by buying purebreds.
Where to Buy Rabbits to Show in 4-H
If you are beginning a 4-H rabbit project, the best place to buy rabbits is from a local breeder. If possible, buy bunnies from a breeder in your immediate area. That way you can develop a relationship with the breeder and he or she can be there to help if you run into problems down the road. Also, this gives you a chance to visit their farm (if they invite you over) and see how they manage their rabbitry, which can give you ideas on how to start your own project. Finally, there's a good chance that a breeder in your county is familiar with the fair you plan to show at, and will know the classes they accept. One of the best places to get in touch with local breeders is through online Rabbit Breeder Directories.
Most fairs have their own regulations when it comes to dividing rabbits for judging. It's important to know what classes they offer so you can know how to buy and breed your stock. Some fairs divide rabbit classes by fancy (small) and commercial (large) breeds. Others judge each breed separately like an ARBA sanctioned show. In fact, some fair shows are also ARBA sanctioned. Some allow mixed breed rabbits and others do not. Some fairs have "get of sire" or "get of dam" classes, where you can show a senior rabbit with its junior offspring. Almost all fairs offer market classes such as meat pens, single fryers, and commercial fur. Most have rabbit showmanship competitions, and some have extra contests for youth participants such as judging, quiz bowl, skill-a-thon, or royalty.
Narrow down which classes you would like to enter before you purchase your stock. Then look for a respected breeder in your area that raises the type of rabbits you would like to show. Start looking for a breeder as soon as possible; don't delay even for a few weeks. Some breeders have waiting lists of customers and it might take several months before you can get stock from them. Contact them early to get on their list early, and also to make sure you don't miss the fair's deadline. Many fairs require exhibitors to have their rabbits on their own premises a couple of months before show day. That way they can be sure that the showman is responsible for the rabbit's current health and condition.
Never purchase a rabbit if you detect any red flags about the bunny or the breeder. Don't be afraid to ask the breeder questions: if they won't help you with your questions, they are not someone you want to buy from. Check the rabbit over thoroughly for health issues or disqualifications. Always, always check its teeth, toenails, and sex before agreeing to bring it home. Even well-meaning breeders can make mistakes when sexing a rabbit or looking it over for disqualifications, and you don't want to find out too late. If it's your first time buying rabbits, bring your 4-H leader or other mentor along with you to get their opinion about the bunnies.
Care of a 4-H Rabbit Project
Once you have your rabbits home, your only job is to keep them in top condition until show day. Here are the five top rules for preparing your rabbit for fair:
1. Use the proper equipment. Only use all-wire cages. These are much less likely to cause urine stains on your rabbit than solid bottomed cages. They also keep your rabbit's environment cleaner and reduce ammonia. If you plan to breed your rabbits, make sure you have a nest box ready at least a week before your doe is due to deliver.
2. Feed a healthy and consistent diet. People will spend a long time looking at feed bag labels trying to determine the healthiest diet for their rabbits. While that is admirable, sometimes the freshness of the feed and the consistency of the nutrition are more important than the brand of pellets. Ideally, show rabbits should have a diet low in protein and fat and high in fiber. Free-choice timothy hay is an excellent addition to any rabbit's meal. Always make sure the feed is fresh; rabbits will not condition well on stale pellets. A healthy base diet is more effective at getting your rabbit in top condition than any supplements you could throw in.
3. Provide the proper environment. Proper housing doesn't stop at a well-made cage. The cage must be located in an area with excellent ventilation. The surrounding temperature should not get above 85 degrees at any time of the year, at least unless you take measures to keep your rabbit cool and hydrated in hot weather. The cage can be kept outside, but must be protected from predators and precipitation. It must be kept in a quiet area so your rabbit will not be stressed. All these factors, if the rabbit is not protected from them, can compromise your bunny's immune system. It's also very important to keep the cage clean. Not only will this help prevent disease such as coccidiosis, but it will you're your rabbit's coat from getting stained.
4. Handle your rabbit often. This step must not be neglected if you want to be successful showing rabbits in 4-H. You must train your rabbit to pose, so it will look good for the judges. Rabbits can learn to pose themselves as soon as they are touched if you work long enough with them. If you are competing in rabbit showmanship, you should get your rabbit used to the routine, so it will cooperate with you on show day. Handling your rabbit is also very important because it allows you to check its health and condition daily. That way if your rabbit has any health problems, you can catch them early on.
5. Keep good records. Some 4-H leaders or county fairs will require you to show your project record book along with your rabbit. You might even win a prize for keeping good records! Even if record keeping is not a requirement, it's an excellent management practice and will help you raise better rabbits in the end. At bare minimum, you should keep pedigrees and breeding records for every rabbit you raise. Hint: grab some rabbitry management software to make your job easier.
Beyond the Show Day
Many 4-H members are "in it to win it" - and that's fine. It makes for healthy competition. But 4-H is about much more than winning Grand Champion. Even if you start because you want to compete, you will find that you learn many skills in 4-H that will help you your whole life. So even if you don't win first prize, take time to enjoy learning how to care for animals, enjoy the friendships you build with others in your club, and enjoy being a benefit to your community as you pledge your "hands to larger service."
If you'd like more information on how to show rabbits in 4-H clubs, check out the Youth Rabbit Project Study Guide and Raising Meat Pen Rabbits Guide by Aaron Webster. Updated for 2013, this book gives expert tips about how to show your rabbit in Showmanship and compete in Breed ID and other 4-H competitions. Written by a two-time runner up for ARBA National Rabbit Queen
Making your Rabbit Feel Safe
By Ellyn Eddy
Rabbits have friendly, curious personalities, making them excellent pets. But along with their gentle temperaments comes a timid nature. Rabbits are prey animals. They are constantly on the lookout for danger, and they like to have a hole nearby where they can hide if they feel threatened.
Our domestic rabbits are descended from the wild rabbit of Europe, a species famous for digging long tunnels. When we house our rabbits in wire cages, we strip from the comfort that a burrow offers. Thankfully, there are a few things we can do to give them that feeling of security in their modern cage.
Five ways to make your rabbit's cage more comfortable
1. Place a nesting box inside the cage. The fastest and easiest way to make your rabbit feel safer in its cage is to give it a nesting box. The wood or metal ones made for females with litters work fine for single adult rabbits as well. If you pack the nest box with straw, your rabbit may dig a hollow in the straw that will feel like a burrow. Of course, you'll have to keep an eye on the box and replace the straw whenever it gets wet or soiled. (Don't use hay in the box or your rabbit will probably just eat it.) If you don't have a nesting box you can give your rabbit a plastic igloo to hide in. The only problem with igloos is that the largest ones are made for guinea pigs, and it can be hard to find one big enough for an adult rabbit.
2. Don't choose a cage that's too large. Rabbits absolutely love to run around. They like big spacious areas where they can stretch and jump and play. But when it comes to their cage, they actually prefer small spaces. A rabbit can be uneasy in a cage that's too large, because it doesn't feel like it has a safe dark corner to rest in. When you think about it, even a large 30" x 30" cage isn't really big enough for a rabbit to exercise in, so it's better to get a smaller cage and let your rabbit out to play more often.
3. Cover the outside of the cage. All-wire cages work great for rabbits; they are much stronger and safer than half-and-half cages made of wire stapled onto wood. But as long as your rabbit is contained by the all-wire cage, tacking up a frame of wood around the outside isn't a bad idea. You can build a plywood box, open on the bottom and one or two sides, to place over the cage. If your rabbits are outdoors, the wood will protect them from direct sun and rain. If your bunnies are in the house, they might appreciate the box to help them get some P&Q when you have company over.
4. Keep your rabbit's environment stress-free. Our domestic rabbits are well adapted to cage living. The majority of rabbits don't mind living in an open cage most of the time; some will not even use a nest box. But in order for them to stay comfortable, their environment needs to quiet and free of danger. Keep young children and pet dogs or cats out of the rabbitry. If your rabbit lives in a barn, garage, or outdoors, check frequently to make sure you've blocked every small hole where a raccoon, weasel, or snake could sneak in. Don't run noisy appliances - the lawnmower, or drill, or kitchen appliances - too near your rabbit's cage. A sudden noise can startle rabbits, making them jump or run, and possibly break their back or crash into the side of their cage.
5. Run a fan in the rabbit room. Just like some people run a fan in their bedrooms at night to help them sleep, you can place a small household fan in the rabbitry 24/7. A little white noise can mask sharp sounds in the distance, and create an air of constancy and security. Besides, more ventilation in the area always leads to better respiratory health for your rabbits.
The Right Supplies can keep your Rabbit Safe
In short, our present-day rabbit cages are indeed safer and more secure than an old fashioned hole in the ground, but rabbits don't always feel like it. You can keep your rabbit protected with a high-quality modern cage, then make a few improvements to make him feel as comfortable as possible. As a bonus tip, handle your rabbit frequently: the more positive experience he has with humans, the more he will be comfortable living in their territory.
By Ellyn Eddy
Rabbits have friendly, curious personalities, making them excellent pets. But along with their gentle temperaments comes a timid nature. Rabbits are prey animals. They are constantly on the lookout for danger, and they like to have a hole nearby where they can hide if they feel threatened.
Our domestic rabbits are descended from the wild rabbit of Europe, a species famous for digging long tunnels. When we house our rabbits in wire cages, we strip from the comfort that a burrow offers. Thankfully, there are a few things we can do to give them that feeling of security in their modern cage.
Five ways to make your rabbit's cage more comfortable
1. Place a nesting box inside the cage. The fastest and easiest way to make your rabbit feel safer in its cage is to give it a nesting box. The wood or metal ones made for females with litters work fine for single adult rabbits as well. If you pack the nest box with straw, your rabbit may dig a hollow in the straw that will feel like a burrow. Of course, you'll have to keep an eye on the box and replace the straw whenever it gets wet or soiled. (Don't use hay in the box or your rabbit will probably just eat it.) If you don't have a nesting box you can give your rabbit a plastic igloo to hide in. The only problem with igloos is that the largest ones are made for guinea pigs, and it can be hard to find one big enough for an adult rabbit.
2. Don't choose a cage that's too large. Rabbits absolutely love to run around. They like big spacious areas where they can stretch and jump and play. But when it comes to their cage, they actually prefer small spaces. A rabbit can be uneasy in a cage that's too large, because it doesn't feel like it has a safe dark corner to rest in. When you think about it, even a large 30" x 30" cage isn't really big enough for a rabbit to exercise in, so it's better to get a smaller cage and let your rabbit out to play more often.
3. Cover the outside of the cage. All-wire cages work great for rabbits; they are much stronger and safer than half-and-half cages made of wire stapled onto wood. But as long as your rabbit is contained by the all-wire cage, tacking up a frame of wood around the outside isn't a bad idea. You can build a plywood box, open on the bottom and one or two sides, to place over the cage. If your rabbits are outdoors, the wood will protect them from direct sun and rain. If your bunnies are in the house, they might appreciate the box to help them get some P&Q when you have company over.
4. Keep your rabbit's environment stress-free. Our domestic rabbits are well adapted to cage living. The majority of rabbits don't mind living in an open cage most of the time; some will not even use a nest box. But in order for them to stay comfortable, their environment needs to quiet and free of danger. Keep young children and pet dogs or cats out of the rabbitry. If your rabbit lives in a barn, garage, or outdoors, check frequently to make sure you've blocked every small hole where a raccoon, weasel, or snake could sneak in. Don't run noisy appliances - the lawnmower, or drill, or kitchen appliances - too near your rabbit's cage. A sudden noise can startle rabbits, making them jump or run, and possibly break their back or crash into the side of their cage.
5. Run a fan in the rabbit room. Just like some people run a fan in their bedrooms at night to help them sleep, you can place a small household fan in the rabbitry 24/7. A little white noise can mask sharp sounds in the distance, and create an air of constancy and security. Besides, more ventilation in the area always leads to better respiratory health for your rabbits.
The Right Supplies can keep your Rabbit Safe
In short, our present-day rabbit cages are indeed safer and more secure than an old fashioned hole in the ground, but rabbits don't always feel like it. You can keep your rabbit protected with a high-quality modern cage, then make a few improvements to make him feel as comfortable as possible. As a bonus tip, handle your rabbit frequently: the more positive experience he has with humans, the more he will be comfortable living in their territory.
Rabbit Pedigrees. Find information about rabbit pedigrees and learn how to create your own rabbit pedigrees.
What is a rabbit pedigree?
All rabbits have ancestors, right? But not all rabbits have pedigrees. A pedigree is simply a record of a rabbit's ancestors. If you have a document that lists your rabbit's parents, grand-parents, and great-grandparents, your bunny is fully pedigreed.
A pedigreed rabbit is not necessarily the same as a purebred rabbit. Any rabbit can have a pedigree, even if it comes from a mixed lineage. A purebred rabbit has at least three generations of ancestors of only one breed. If you lose the pedigree on your purebred rabbit, it's still a purebred. Both terms are also different from the term "registered." A registered rabbit is a purebred that has a full pedigree, and that has been officially been filed into the records of the American Rabbit Breeders Association. A registered rabbit must have a full purebred pedigree, but a rabbit may be a purebred and have a pedigree, but still not be registered.
How do I produce a pedigree for my rabbits?
Only a licensed registrar can register your rabbit with the ARBA, but any breeder can make an official pedigree for the babies they produce. If both parents are pedigreed, you have all the information you need to make a pedigree for the babies. There are several ways to produce a pedigree. You can order pedigree blanks from some cage suppliers. If you're good with the computer, you can produce your own using Microsoft Word or a similar program. You can Google "custom rabbit pedigree designs" to find companies that offer this service. Or you can buy rabbitry management software such as The Easy Rabbit Pedigree Generator which we recommend to help aid you in the pedigree data storage and generation process.
Learn more about The Easy Rabbit Pedigree Generator:
http://rabbitbreeders.us/newsletter/rabbit-pedigree-software/
What information does a rabbit pedigree contain?
The pedigrees you provide for the bunnies you sell should contain all the information that people need to register their rabbits with the ARBA if they so choose. In order to be ARBA registered, a rabbit must have a pedigree that contains the following information on the bunny itself and three generations of its ancestors, i.e. its parents, grandparents, and great grandparents.
-Name - Breeders can name their rabbits anything they like. Most breeders use a prefix before the rabbit's name to indicate the breeder, such as Katie's Fluffy, Jones' Cookies, or BTR's Bucky.
- Color - This is the registration variety; the exact color of the bunny. Write "broken blue" instead of just "broken" or "blue tortoise" instead of just "tort."
- Ear Number - this is the tattoo found in the left ear of the rabbit.
- Weight - Weights on rabbits' pedigrees are written with a decimal point, however, weights are not written in the metric system. Instead, the number 4.5 would indicate four pounds and five ounces, not four and a half.
-Registration and Grand Championship numbers - Provide these ARBA numbers when applicable.
That's all the info that pedigrees must have, however, breeders often like to provide a few more details. Optional information includes winnings, number of Grand Championship legs, genotype, ear length, and additional generations of ancestors.
Interested in creating your own rabbit pedigrees? Grab a discounted copy of our recommended Easy Rabbit Pedigree Generator here:
http://rabbitbreeders.us/newsletter/rabbit-pedigree-software/
What is a rabbit pedigree?
All rabbits have ancestors, right? But not all rabbits have pedigrees. A pedigree is simply a record of a rabbit's ancestors. If you have a document that lists your rabbit's parents, grand-parents, and great-grandparents, your bunny is fully pedigreed.
A pedigreed rabbit is not necessarily the same as a purebred rabbit. Any rabbit can have a pedigree, even if it comes from a mixed lineage. A purebred rabbit has at least three generations of ancestors of only one breed. If you lose the pedigree on your purebred rabbit, it's still a purebred. Both terms are also different from the term "registered." A registered rabbit is a purebred that has a full pedigree, and that has been officially been filed into the records of the American Rabbit Breeders Association. A registered rabbit must have a full purebred pedigree, but a rabbit may be a purebred and have a pedigree, but still not be registered.
How do I produce a pedigree for my rabbits?
Only a licensed registrar can register your rabbit with the ARBA, but any breeder can make an official pedigree for the babies they produce. If both parents are pedigreed, you have all the information you need to make a pedigree for the babies. There are several ways to produce a pedigree. You can order pedigree blanks from some cage suppliers. If you're good with the computer, you can produce your own using Microsoft Word or a similar program. You can Google "custom rabbit pedigree designs" to find companies that offer this service. Or you can buy rabbitry management software such as The Easy Rabbit Pedigree Generator which we recommend to help aid you in the pedigree data storage and generation process.
Learn more about The Easy Rabbit Pedigree Generator:
http://rabbitbreeders.us/newsletter/rabbit-pedigree-software/
What information does a rabbit pedigree contain?
The pedigrees you provide for the bunnies you sell should contain all the information that people need to register their rabbits with the ARBA if they so choose. In order to be ARBA registered, a rabbit must have a pedigree that contains the following information on the bunny itself and three generations of its ancestors, i.e. its parents, grandparents, and great grandparents.
-Name - Breeders can name their rabbits anything they like. Most breeders use a prefix before the rabbit's name to indicate the breeder, such as Katie's Fluffy, Jones' Cookies, or BTR's Bucky.
- Color - This is the registration variety; the exact color of the bunny. Write "broken blue" instead of just "broken" or "blue tortoise" instead of just "tort."
- Ear Number - this is the tattoo found in the left ear of the rabbit.
- Weight - Weights on rabbits' pedigrees are written with a decimal point, however, weights are not written in the metric system. Instead, the number 4.5 would indicate four pounds and five ounces, not four and a half.
-Registration and Grand Championship numbers - Provide these ARBA numbers when applicable.
That's all the info that pedigrees must have, however, breeders often like to provide a few more details. Optional information includes winnings, number of Grand Championship legs, genotype, ear length, and additional generations of ancestors.
Interested in creating your own rabbit pedigrees? Grab a discounted copy of our recommended Easy Rabbit Pedigree Generator here:
http://rabbitbreeders.us/newsletter/rabbit-pedigree-software/
Preventing Sore Rabbit Hocks
By Ellyn Eddy
The other day my brother showed me some photos he had taken in the woods near our home. They were pictures of bear tracks. Black bear tracks. Yes, we live that far north.
One thing he pointed out in the photos was that some of the tracks were deeper than the others. Evidently bears rest more weight on their hind feed than they do on their front feet - just like rabbits. The back part of a rabbit's hind foot is called the hock, and this area supports most of the bunnyweight. The hock is normally covered with a thick layer of fuzz, but sometimes this fur wears away, and the skin on the hock and break and bleed. Average rabbit owners call this condition "sore hocks," though vets might term it pododermatitis or ulcerated foot pads. I'm not sure what you call it in bears.
Sore hocks can develop on any rabbit, but certain ones are more susceptible. Those would be the Rex-furred breeds (since they have short fine fur), the very large breeds (since they have more weight to bear), and excitable rabbits that stamp their feet a lot. It's also more common in rabbits that are housed in cages with wire floors. Put two of these factors together (i.e. rex fur + wire floor) and you will need to be proactive if you want to prevent ouchie bunny feet.
Unfortunately, once sore hocks have developed, they're very hard to treat. If the fur gets worn away, it will seldom grow back. Plus, since rabbits spend so much time on their feet, the skin doesn't have much of a chance to heal. So it's worth the trouble to institute a Pododermatitis Protection Plan.
That plan doesn't have to include moving your rabbits to solid-floored cages. I don't even recommend it. The reason why most rabbits are housed on wire floors is because wire floors are best for them. Cleanest. Safest. Healthiest. In fact, I read a study from the World Rabbit Council (summarized several years ago in Domestic Rabbits magazine) that said rabbits seemed to actually prefer wire floors if given the option.
So how can get all the benefits of a wire floor with none of the disadvantages?
Enter the EZ-Mat
Plastic resting mats (also known as EZ-Mats) are extremely popular with rabbit owners, and for good reason. They're simply hard plastic mats - made of quality, non-toxic ABS - that lay over the top of the cage floor, giving your rabbit a place to rest off the wire. They have very smooth surfaces; all the edges are carefully beveled to prevent wear on your rabbit's feet. And they are super sanitary. They have slots punched out that allow waste to fall right through into the drop pan. And if the mats ever get dirty, they're easy to wash with soap and water. You can even put them in your dishwasher! (My family has never been cool with that idea, though.)
Ask around to your bunny friends, and you'll probably find that most of them use resting mats. If you don't have any yet for your bunnies, today is a great day to go EZ-Mat shopping, because a popular rabbit supply company is offering a three-day sale on EZ-Mats right now.
Get EZ-Mats 15% off - Today Only
Follow this special link to save 15% on EZ-Mats from Premium Rabbit Supplies. It's a three-day sale, but tomorrow the mats will only be 10% off, so you can save by ordering today.
http://www.premiumrabbits.com/ez-mat-resting-mats-on-sale/
While you're at Premium Rabbit Supplies, check out the other supplies we offer: cages, carriers, nest boxes, dishes, toys, and lots more. If you have any questions while you're there, just call 1-800-809-8752 or sign into live chat. We'll be happy to help!
But wait, has your rabbit already developed sore hocks?
If your rabbit already has sore hocks, resting mats can definitely help. Additionally we recommend that you apply some Bunny Balm (also used during rabbit tattooing) on the sore area to help get rid of the condition. I personally apply the KBtatts All Natural Bunny Balm when my rabbits get sore hocks.
You can grab some for use via:
http://www.premiumrabbits.com/kbtatts-bunny-balm/ .
Have a hoppy day!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Recommended Products:
Slotted Plastic Resting Mats for Rabbits
Although rabbits have thick fur on the bottoms of their feet, they can sometimes use a little extra protection. EZ-Mats are plastic mats that lay on a cage floor to give rabbits a place to sit off the wire - but unlike other resting boards, EZ-Mats have slats in them to allow droppings to fall through. The slats are carefully beveled to prevent sharp edges, and the mats hook onto the wire floors with plastic tabs. At last, here's a clean way to keep your rabbit's feet in good shape.
EZ-Mats: Plastic Floor Coverings for Wire Cages
-Dimensions are 10" x 14.5"
-Comes in dark blue and light gray. Choice of colors not guaranteed for this special offer price.
-Slotted, smooth top design provides protection and sanitation at the same time.
http://www.premiumrabbits.com/ez-mat-resting-mats-on-sale/
---------------------------------------------------------------------
All-Natural Balm for use with Rabbit Tattoos
This excellent blend of olive oil, beeswax, and mango & cocoa butter is a wonderful complement to your rabbit tattoo kit. It's made of all natural ingredients, and has two practical purposes. First, you can spread it over the ear before tattooing to prevent the ink from running and smearing, and secondly, you can smooth a thin layer of balm over the completed tattoo to promote healing. But the usefulness doesn't end there. This balm also helps heal minor scrapes, cuts, and sore hocks.
Ingredients: olive oil, beeswax, mango & cocoa butter, lavender & rosemary oil, and vitamin E."
http://www.premiumrabbits.com/kbtatts-bunny-balm/
By Ellyn Eddy
The other day my brother showed me some photos he had taken in the woods near our home. They were pictures of bear tracks. Black bear tracks. Yes, we live that far north.
One thing he pointed out in the photos was that some of the tracks were deeper than the others. Evidently bears rest more weight on their hind feed than they do on their front feet - just like rabbits. The back part of a rabbit's hind foot is called the hock, and this area supports most of the bunnyweight. The hock is normally covered with a thick layer of fuzz, but sometimes this fur wears away, and the skin on the hock and break and bleed. Average rabbit owners call this condition "sore hocks," though vets might term it pododermatitis or ulcerated foot pads. I'm not sure what you call it in bears.
Sore hocks can develop on any rabbit, but certain ones are more susceptible. Those would be the Rex-furred breeds (since they have short fine fur), the very large breeds (since they have more weight to bear), and excitable rabbits that stamp their feet a lot. It's also more common in rabbits that are housed in cages with wire floors. Put two of these factors together (i.e. rex fur + wire floor) and you will need to be proactive if you want to prevent ouchie bunny feet.
Unfortunately, once sore hocks have developed, they're very hard to treat. If the fur gets worn away, it will seldom grow back. Plus, since rabbits spend so much time on their feet, the skin doesn't have much of a chance to heal. So it's worth the trouble to institute a Pododermatitis Protection Plan.
That plan doesn't have to include moving your rabbits to solid-floored cages. I don't even recommend it. The reason why most rabbits are housed on wire floors is because wire floors are best for them. Cleanest. Safest. Healthiest. In fact, I read a study from the World Rabbit Council (summarized several years ago in Domestic Rabbits magazine) that said rabbits seemed to actually prefer wire floors if given the option.
So how can get all the benefits of a wire floor with none of the disadvantages?
Enter the EZ-Mat
Plastic resting mats (also known as EZ-Mats) are extremely popular with rabbit owners, and for good reason. They're simply hard plastic mats - made of quality, non-toxic ABS - that lay over the top of the cage floor, giving your rabbit a place to rest off the wire. They have very smooth surfaces; all the edges are carefully beveled to prevent wear on your rabbit's feet. And they are super sanitary. They have slots punched out that allow waste to fall right through into the drop pan. And if the mats ever get dirty, they're easy to wash with soap and water. You can even put them in your dishwasher! (My family has never been cool with that idea, though.)
Ask around to your bunny friends, and you'll probably find that most of them use resting mats. If you don't have any yet for your bunnies, today is a great day to go EZ-Mat shopping, because a popular rabbit supply company is offering a three-day sale on EZ-Mats right now.
Get EZ-Mats 15% off - Today Only
Follow this special link to save 15% on EZ-Mats from Premium Rabbit Supplies. It's a three-day sale, but tomorrow the mats will only be 10% off, so you can save by ordering today.
http://www.premiumrabbits.com/ez-mat-resting-mats-on-sale/
While you're at Premium Rabbit Supplies, check out the other supplies we offer: cages, carriers, nest boxes, dishes, toys, and lots more. If you have any questions while you're there, just call 1-800-809-8752 or sign into live chat. We'll be happy to help!
But wait, has your rabbit already developed sore hocks?
If your rabbit already has sore hocks, resting mats can definitely help. Additionally we recommend that you apply some Bunny Balm (also used during rabbit tattooing) on the sore area to help get rid of the condition. I personally apply the KBtatts All Natural Bunny Balm when my rabbits get sore hocks.
You can grab some for use via:
http://www.premiumrabbits.com/kbtatts-bunny-balm/ .
Have a hoppy day!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Recommended Products:
Slotted Plastic Resting Mats for Rabbits
Although rabbits have thick fur on the bottoms of their feet, they can sometimes use a little extra protection. EZ-Mats are plastic mats that lay on a cage floor to give rabbits a place to sit off the wire - but unlike other resting boards, EZ-Mats have slats in them to allow droppings to fall through. The slats are carefully beveled to prevent sharp edges, and the mats hook onto the wire floors with plastic tabs. At last, here's a clean way to keep your rabbit's feet in good shape.
EZ-Mats: Plastic Floor Coverings for Wire Cages
-Dimensions are 10" x 14.5"
-Comes in dark blue and light gray. Choice of colors not guaranteed for this special offer price.
-Slotted, smooth top design provides protection and sanitation at the same time.
http://www.premiumrabbits.com/ez-mat-resting-mats-on-sale/
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All-Natural Balm for use with Rabbit Tattoos
This excellent blend of olive oil, beeswax, and mango & cocoa butter is a wonderful complement to your rabbit tattoo kit. It's made of all natural ingredients, and has two practical purposes. First, you can spread it over the ear before tattooing to prevent the ink from running and smearing, and secondly, you can smooth a thin layer of balm over the completed tattoo to promote healing. But the usefulness doesn't end there. This balm also helps heal minor scrapes, cuts, and sore hocks.
Ingredients: olive oil, beeswax, mango & cocoa butter, lavender & rosemary oil, and vitamin E."
http://www.premiumrabbits.com/kbtatts-bunny-balm/
Rabbit Cage 2.0 - Taking your rabbit's home to the next level
By Ellyn Eddy
Every rabbit deserves a sturdy, well-built home. One made of 16-gauge wire that will protect them from predators. One held together with heavy J-clips or C-rings, so there's no danger of it collapsing on them. One that has a tight 1/2" x 1" mesh floor - mesh small enough to provide excellent support for their weight, but large enough to stay tidy by letting droppings fall through. Every rabbit deserves a cage that's large enough - that has at least one square foot of floor space per pound of rabbit-weight - and one placed in a location that's protected from heat, cold, rain, sun, and wind.
Give your rabbit all these things, and he'll have a cage that will keep him safe and healthy. But what if you want to take it to the next level? How do you go over and above what's required to let your rabbit languish in luxury?
Enter the cage trimmings.
Accessories to make your rabbit's house into a home
Surprisingly, it doesn't take a lot of money to turn your rabbit's basic cage into a place to be proud of. Here a few quick accessories you can add to transform your rabbit's house into a home:
-Door Guards. Rabbit cages are made of wire, and wire can have sharp ends when it's cut. Cage manufacturers are careful to grind and galvanize these edges to prevent scratches, but a little extra protection never hurts. You can buy plastic door guards in five-foot lengths that clip on to the wire and protect both your arms and your bunny from scratches.
-Urine Guards. Also known as splash guards, these 4" guards wrap around the lower walls of the cage. Perhaps more for your convenience than your bunny's, keep your rabbit's urine from spilling outside the drop tray on to the floor. Splash guards work especially well for stacking cages, protecting rabbits on lower levels from getting dripped on by rabbits up top. Plus, they just look snazzy. The Supreme Rabbit Home line of cages comes with urine guards and door guards already installed, but if you've already purchased cages that don't have them, you can buy them separately as well.
-Resting Mats. In general, wire floors work great for rabbits. They're clean; they're sturdy; they're shiny. But they aren't perfect. Although most breeds can live on wire floors without issue, it's always nice to provide a bit of relief from the metal mesh. Slotted resting mats are brilliantly designed to lay on top of the wire, protecting your rabbit's feet while still allowing waste to fall through into the drop tray. The tops of the mats are very smooth and beveled just right to prevent any sharp edges that could catch on your rabbit's toes. They're made of high-quality ABS plastic, so they're completely washable and hold up fine to rabbit teeth (that is, as well as any plastic can).
Newsflash! Resting mats are on sale for just two more days at PremiumRabbits.com. Save 10% if you order today!
http://www.premiumrabbits.com/ez-mat-resting-mats-on-sale/
-Hay Racks - Have you heard about hay racks? All the cool rabbits have them. Rabbits should have constant access to good hay. It's like, pretty important. And it's also important that the hay is clean. That doesn't just mean that the hay isn't musty and moldy: it also means that it hasn't been thrown on the cage floor, where there's an 85% chance rabbits will play with it, lay on it, and/or pee on it before eating it. Racks sit on the outside of the cage and allow the rabbits to pull wisps of hay through the bars, both promoting health and preventing a lot of waste.
-Nesting Boxes. Surprise! Nesting boxes aren't just for nests. Although boxes are essential for babies, they're pretty popular with adult rabbits, too. Many rabbits enjoy the feeling of being in a burrow that a nest box can provide. Others prefer to perch on the top of the box, as if they were playing King of the Mountain. One thing's sure: if you offer your rabbits a box full of straw to play with, they won't neglect it.
Not only that, but a nest box can save your rabbit's life. I've heard lots of stories about raccoons breaking into a barn and killing rabbits through the cage bars. I've seen it happen in my own rabbitry. A friend and I were discussing it just today, and she said she keeps boxes in her rabbits' cages to give them shelter in case of an attack by raccoons or dogs. Better to be safe than sorry!
So how are those ideas for a few low-cost improvements to your rabbit's home? There's a lot more I could add, but to save us all time, how about you just take your bunny shopping at PremiumRabbits.com and see what he likes? Premium Rabbit Supplies has Resting Mats (10% off today at this link), hay racks, nest boxes made of both wood and metal, and lots more. If you have any questions while you're there, just call 1-800-809-8752 or sign into live chat. We'll be happy to help!
By Ellyn Eddy
Every rabbit deserves a sturdy, well-built home. One made of 16-gauge wire that will protect them from predators. One held together with heavy J-clips or C-rings, so there's no danger of it collapsing on them. One that has a tight 1/2" x 1" mesh floor - mesh small enough to provide excellent support for their weight, but large enough to stay tidy by letting droppings fall through. Every rabbit deserves a cage that's large enough - that has at least one square foot of floor space per pound of rabbit-weight - and one placed in a location that's protected from heat, cold, rain, sun, and wind.
Give your rabbit all these things, and he'll have a cage that will keep him safe and healthy. But what if you want to take it to the next level? How do you go over and above what's required to let your rabbit languish in luxury?
Enter the cage trimmings.
Accessories to make your rabbit's house into a home
Surprisingly, it doesn't take a lot of money to turn your rabbit's basic cage into a place to be proud of. Here a few quick accessories you can add to transform your rabbit's house into a home:
-Door Guards. Rabbit cages are made of wire, and wire can have sharp ends when it's cut. Cage manufacturers are careful to grind and galvanize these edges to prevent scratches, but a little extra protection never hurts. You can buy plastic door guards in five-foot lengths that clip on to the wire and protect both your arms and your bunny from scratches.
-Urine Guards. Also known as splash guards, these 4" guards wrap around the lower walls of the cage. Perhaps more for your convenience than your bunny's, keep your rabbit's urine from spilling outside the drop tray on to the floor. Splash guards work especially well for stacking cages, protecting rabbits on lower levels from getting dripped on by rabbits up top. Plus, they just look snazzy. The Supreme Rabbit Home line of cages comes with urine guards and door guards already installed, but if you've already purchased cages that don't have them, you can buy them separately as well.
-Resting Mats. In general, wire floors work great for rabbits. They're clean; they're sturdy; they're shiny. But they aren't perfect. Although most breeds can live on wire floors without issue, it's always nice to provide a bit of relief from the metal mesh. Slotted resting mats are brilliantly designed to lay on top of the wire, protecting your rabbit's feet while still allowing waste to fall through into the drop tray. The tops of the mats are very smooth and beveled just right to prevent any sharp edges that could catch on your rabbit's toes. They're made of high-quality ABS plastic, so they're completely washable and hold up fine to rabbit teeth (that is, as well as any plastic can).
Newsflash! Resting mats are on sale for just two more days at PremiumRabbits.com. Save 10% if you order today!
http://www.premiumrabbits.com/ez-mat-resting-mats-on-sale/
-Hay Racks - Have you heard about hay racks? All the cool rabbits have them. Rabbits should have constant access to good hay. It's like, pretty important. And it's also important that the hay is clean. That doesn't just mean that the hay isn't musty and moldy: it also means that it hasn't been thrown on the cage floor, where there's an 85% chance rabbits will play with it, lay on it, and/or pee on it before eating it. Racks sit on the outside of the cage and allow the rabbits to pull wisps of hay through the bars, both promoting health and preventing a lot of waste.
-Nesting Boxes. Surprise! Nesting boxes aren't just for nests. Although boxes are essential for babies, they're pretty popular with adult rabbits, too. Many rabbits enjoy the feeling of being in a burrow that a nest box can provide. Others prefer to perch on the top of the box, as if they were playing King of the Mountain. One thing's sure: if you offer your rabbits a box full of straw to play with, they won't neglect it.
Not only that, but a nest box can save your rabbit's life. I've heard lots of stories about raccoons breaking into a barn and killing rabbits through the cage bars. I've seen it happen in my own rabbitry. A friend and I were discussing it just today, and she said she keeps boxes in her rabbits' cages to give them shelter in case of an attack by raccoons or dogs. Better to be safe than sorry!
So how are those ideas for a few low-cost improvements to your rabbit's home? There's a lot more I could add, but to save us all time, how about you just take your bunny shopping at PremiumRabbits.com and see what he likes? Premium Rabbit Supplies has Resting Mats (10% off today at this link), hay racks, nest boxes made of both wood and metal, and lots more. If you have any questions while you're there, just call 1-800-809-8752 or sign into live chat. We'll be happy to help!